9/02/2003

i'm a surfer dude...dude

   The highlight of my weekend...the most fun I've had in a while. Yes I finally surfed. Yesterday Stacy and I went to visit her boss and her husband. This was the first time that I got to meet them, even though we've tried to hook up a few times. I step out of the car and Brian says, "Hey...I heard you want to learn to surf." I said,"Yeah." He said,"Well go put on these shorts...let go learn." So I borrowed some shorts, he put me in a short suit and we were off, across the street, to Silverstrand. Wow I had so much fun, the first few waves I didn't catch because I wasn't paddling fast enough. And then I saw it, the "perfect wave." It was at least a 10...incher. I started paddling, and paddling and paddling...then I felt it the force of the wave taking me, and my board, over the edge. I dropped in, and almost with cat like reflexes...I stood up. I was surfing...I was surfing. I rode it in all the way...or at least til there was less then a foot between the top of the water and the sand. Finally...finally...I can call my self a "surfer." Another title to throw around...ok not really, but is was really fun. I was able to get up a few more times, and rode them for a while. But after an hour and half of surfing I was tired. So I decided to be finished for the day....But believe me I will forever be in search of the next "perfect wave."